Archive for September 2014

Vapor Retarders VS Air Barriers

Water vapor moves from the warm side of a building to the cold side. We must design our insulation
system to allow trapped water vapor to get out and keep exterior water vapor from getting in.
 Materials that retard the flow of water vapor are called impermeable. Materials which allow water vapor to pass are called permeable. Naturally there are degrees of permeability and all materials and systems have varying degrees of permeability. Most building codes require a vapor retarder whose permeability is 1.0 or less.
Vapor barriers and air barriers are two different things. The purpose of air barriers is to have a structure whose holes, tears, openings, and penetration are closed up or as much as or possible because with differences in air pressure, air can move easily through these “openings” and carry moisture through these openings. An air barrier is not a vapor retarder.
In practicality it is impossible to eliminate all penetrations, so it becomes a matter of controlling as much as common sense will allow. So, HVAC systems can be designed in concert with your air and vapor barriers to control ventilation, dehumidification, and air pressure. Your local climate and four seasons affect this as well.



Monday, September 29, 2014
Posted by Unknown

Welcome to Areva

Shireman Construction and the Chamber of Commerce of Harrison County welcomes Areva Pharmaceuticals in this issue of 'This Is harrison County'.




Wednesday, September 24, 2014
Posted by Unknown

Thoughts on Insulation

            Insulation performs many functions, but if we were to boil it down to two things:
1.    Keep the heat away during the summer
2.     Hold our heat in during the winter
Ridged insulation and some spray foam can be air barriers if properly installed but, generally, fiberglass, rock, wool, blown in cellulose etc is not an air barrier.
As we said before, the key is to energy efficient buildings and environmentally friendly buildings is the proper use of insulation. The amount of energy used to produce any kind of insulation is over ridden by the energy saved during the life of the building.
When using fiberglass, do the best you can to make it “full fit” the cavity. Damp spray cellulose will dry toward the interior so the interior will have to be designed to allow that interior drying. Cellulose is not a vapor retarder.
Spray foams have come a long way over the years. Many of them have excellent air sealing capabilities. These foams can quite often reach the hard to reach areas and give you a better insulation barrier. Think about building movement and the tolerances required. Low density foams “move” better than high density foams.




Monday, September 22, 2014
Posted by Unknown

Nurturing Innovation Hubs

Much is being written about innovation and entrepreneurship. Here's another interesting article confirming that.
     - Mark

Wednesday, September 17, 2014
Posted by Unknown

Shireman 4th Generation Additions!

Natalie (left) and Luke (right) cuddling up.

Shireman Construction is pleased to announce new additions to our potential fourth generation of builders (plant the seed early)!

Jeff and Veronica Shireman's twins Luke and Natalie were born on August 22nd. Luke weighed 6 pounds 15 oz. and Natalie was 6 pounds 7 oz.

They recently had a few photos taken with big sister Abby (22 months).

Jeff is slowly transitioning back to the office while Veronica and he remain sleep deprived. The babies sleep 20 hours a day but only 3 hours in a row!

Thanks to everyone who sent best wishes.
Big sister Abby with the Twins.


Tuesday, September 16, 2014
Posted by Unknown

Drywall (Sheetrock) and Paint Basics

Drywall is gypsum board. We want it to look nice, give us some fire protection, reduce air flow, etc.
            Sheetrock, itself, can expand and contract fairly nicely. When it’s cracking it’s because the substrate supporting it is moving. We know that all building materials move, so our goal is to build in expansion joints to allow the substrates to move.
            Property installed and taped drywall makes a good air barrier. When you add your paint you have a nice vapor retarder. This is why architects like the versatility of drywall. Also, you’ll notice fire code drywall being used as draftstops, smoke walls, and firewalls.
            Treated gypsum board is frequently specified to be used in wet areas. If the budget will allow it, substitute their “green board” for cement board. Cement board will last longer.
            Although not specified all over, we like to use 5/8” fire code drywall all over. The 5/8” F.C. is not extremely more expensive and when applied properly over each side of a wall you’ll get a one hour fire rated system all over.
            Paint is a vapor retarder, so it generally lets a wall breathe. Anything exposed to sunlight, precipitation and heat will get punished. These forces when acting on paint, destroy its pigment, then it fades, then it loses its effect. A good paint has a high resin to pigment ratio. The higher resin helps protect the paint from moisture and radiation deterioration. High pigment makes the paint “prettier”, but not stronger. Gloss paint normally has more resin.
            Stain breaks down in ultraviolet light more quickly than paints. This is why you have to “re-stain” so often. Quite often “solid body” stain is really a thin paint, so its value is limited.

            Primers are used to provide a surface to keep the finished paint from over absorbing and provide a more adhesive surface for the paint. Primers also attempt to reduce the effect of tannic acid and salts from wood. Normally, oil based primers hold back tannic acid in wood. Latex primers seem to work okay on masonry, drywall and concrete. Generally, redwood and cedar should be primed with an oil base primer.
Monday, September 15, 2014
Posted by Unknown

Watch Out for Hidden Risks





Wednesday, September 10, 2014
Posted by Unknown

Foundation Basics: Water Management

When it comes to controlling water at the foundation level, your goals are:
      1.     Keep the groundwater out
2.     Support the building above
3.     Support your HVAC design
Water moves through foundations many ways, via water vapor, hydrostatic pressure, etc. Your first priority is to design systems to keep the water moving away from your foundation in the first place, the management of water. No structural system by itself is water tight.
If utilizing a basement:
a.     Perforated drain tile surrounded by coarse gravel
b.     Coarse gravel under the slab and polyethylene type vapor barrier
c.     Damproofing on the exterior side
d.     Roof precipitation flowing away from the foundation wall
If utilizing a “slab on grade design”:
a.     Roof water is directed away from the foundation
b.     Vapor barrier on the bottom of the slab
c.     Drainage gravel under the slab
Coating an exterior foundation with bituminous materials creating damproofing. Damproofing resists the capillary forces of water, but not the hydrostatic forces. “Waterproofing” resists the hydrostatic pressure forces of water. Keep water flowing away from your building and foundation and therefore create no a hydrostatic environment.



Monday, September 8, 2014
Posted by Unknown

Fire Preparedness

This article reminds me of when I was in school. It's an interesting perspective on a big picture issue.
     -Mark

Wednesday, September 3, 2014
Posted by Unknown

'Critter' Management

Keeping your building resistant to dust and critters is one of your highest priorities:
1.     Seal up your exteriors and inspect them annually. Check your walls, roofs, and foundations for holes and penetrations.
2.     Seal up your interior baseboards to keep critters from moving around should they get into your building.
3.     Your building should make it difficult for critters to find food and water. Keep water out, keep your plumbing and ductwork from leaking. Keep the food in sealed containers. Keep your waste in sealed containers. Keep wood and paper from getting wet.
These steps can reduce your expenses associated with pesticides and critter removal vendors.

If budgets would allow, use HVAC filters with MERV ratings of 6 to 8. ASHRE 35% or better.


Monday, September 1, 2014
Posted by Unknown

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